2020. 2. 18. 04:04ㆍ카테고리 없음
I hear this from customers all the time; they pull into the garage and say, 'I need to have an alignment on my car because my steering wheel shakes when I drive on the highway.' The truth is an alignment has nothing to do with your car shaking or your steering wheel vibrating. If you tell your mechanic you need an alignment and they don't ask why, find a new mechanic. A good mechanic will always ask why you need work done on your car so they can get enough information to decide how to fix the problem on the first visit. Mechanics use these words to refer to different operations, though sometimes you get them both done at once.
AlignmentAlignments only realign the tires so they are all pointing in the proper direction while driving down the road. If a car’s tires need alignment, it may pull one way or the other instead of straight when you let go of the steering wheel, or the tires may wear unevenly (deeper on the inside than the outside or vice versa).Alignment is something you might do routinely every year or so. It won't stop a steering wheel vibration, but it's good preventative maintenance, especially if you often drive on potholed, cracked, or dirt roads. BalanceIf a car's tires need balancing, on the other hand, it may shake at freeway speed, or the tires may wear in a cupped or scalloped pattern. Balancing a tire means making sure the weight of the tire-and-wheel unit is balanced all around the axle, with every section having equal weight.The first step in balancing a tire is to match the heaviest part of the rim (usually the valve stem) to the lightest part of the rim (a yellow dot painted by the manufacturer on the tire's sidewall).
Then the mechanic places the tire and rim on a balance machine, which positions plastic or metal weights as needed on the outer part of the rim to fine-tune the balance.Balancing is something you might do routinely whenever you rotate the tires, every six months or 6,000–7,500 miles. Sometimes tire stores will offer you lifetime tire balancing and rotation. I highly recommend this service. Checking the tires routinely to see if they are wearing oddly will make them last longer and cost you less in the long run. Another common cause of steering wheel vibration or car shake is having something lodged in a tire, like a large bolt, or any metal object you may have picked up from the road's surface (I have seen even wrenches and screwdrivers impaling a tire).If you live in an area that has snow, plowing through a snowbank could cause snow and ice to become trapped in the rim or wheel and cause a serious steering wheel vibration. Luckily, this is easy to fix: Just rinse out the snow and ice with a garden hose or pressure washer.
In addition to being a common cause of steering wheel vibration or car shake, low tire pressure can cause the following problems:. poor fuel mileage.
abnormal tire wear. vibrations. blowouts. tire-edge wear. chopping or scallopingAnd the list goes on.
A quick check of your tire pressures can save you money in the long run, in many ways.In cold weather, tire pressures drop. When the temperatures outside drop below 30˚F, I recommend raising the tire pressure about 3 psi above where you would normally keep it. If your tires are so worn that the ridges on the tread are smoothed out or steel fibers are showing through the rubber anywhere, change your tires immediately. Bald tires will definitely cause your steering wheel to vibrate and your car to shake.
Furthermore, if you continue driving on bald tires, they are likely to blow out, and having a tire blow out at highway speeds is extremely dangerous, especially if it's a front tire.Don't be afraid to look at your tires to see if bald tires are causing your problems. You need to physically look at each tire. Turning the steering wheel to one side will give you a better view of the tread surface on your front tires.
You will need to get on your hands and knees to check your rear tires closely. Your mechanic says you need a wheel bearing, what's a wheel bearing? Pictures, video, and discussion of what a wheel bearing is, what its job is, where it's located, and the noises it can make. Learn how to change a front wheel bearing with a step-by-step guide with photos and a video. What a damaged wheel bearing sounds like and how to determine which wheel bearing is causing the noise.
There are four common car noises that drive a vehicle owner crazy. I will explain to you what they are and what you need to do to fix them. Plus a little secret that you should know when buying a new car. Grinding, thumping, squeaking, and scraping. Question:I have a 2002 Chevy Silverado.
There is front end vibration at all speeds. It idles from fifteen to thirty miles an hour, and feels like I have an egg for a tire. There is a horrible vibration while driving Highway speeds; sixty to seventy-five miles an hour. I checked the tires and rotated them, but there's no difference. I also replaced both front wheel bearing hubs.
I went down and replaced the front differential fluid and a bunch of metal on the magnet. Then, I noticed the CV axles leaking. The truck needs tie rods, ball joints and alignment, but could that be the cause of the vibration? The first thing to check is the wheel lug nut torque just to be on the safe side. The most common cause of vibration on acceleration is the inner CV joints. When the CV joints have play or looseness, it can vibrate on acceleration.
If the CV joints are ok, have the front suspension checked for any loose or worn ball joints or tie rod ends. If the front suspension is tight, it's possible your tires are the cause, especially if they are cheap tires. I recommend bringing it back to the place you bought it and have a mechanic go for a ride with you so you can point out the problem, if they are reputable they will most likely fix it for you. Hope this helps. Question:I took my 2006 ford ranger RWD for alignment a few weeks ago.
They mentioned play in the wheels, and I should have the wheel bearings replaced. After I told them I had replaced the front bearings a few weeks back, they said I should just loosen the adjusting nut. I hand tightened the nut next day and rotated my nondirectional tires in a nondirectional pattern, but they had only been rotated directionally before. My steering wheel started vibrating today. I don't hear the wheel bearing noise, thoughts? I ran over a curb in the dark while visiting out of town.
My car made it through the 6 hour drive home but there was definitely damage dobe. I've had to change the front right tire three times since then (3 months ago). My steering wheel vibrates at 55-60 mph and there is a scraping lose rattling noise from the front right when I first begin to drive then goes away soon after. The noises and rough scraping vibrations are continuous until i've completely stopped again. And here and there i'll get a loud poo.
Advise please?. Hi Eddie, I have a 2016 Mercedes C300 and when driving at 50/55mph+ I will get a heavy vibration in the car going up to the sunroof but no vibration in the steering wheel. The faster I go is the stronger the vibration.The dealership told me that the tires need to be changed but there is still some life left on them and that a balance would probably help with the vibration but not the noise. I just got the car balanced and nothing changed. I am wondering if a rim is bent or if its an issue with an axle. Please advise.
Got new tires on my 2002 Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer because they were losing air quickly. Car was driving fine before took it to the tire shop watched the man put the tires on and everything. When I left I heard a “clunk” kinda and instantly my car started to wobble/shake and I can feel it in my steering wheel but I can tell it’s coming from under the front of the car. It starts shaking once I hit about 25/30 mph and it makes a buzzing/grinding/whining sound very very quietly (I know kinda hard to explain the sound) and when I brake or turn it kinda jerk/shakes but there’s no smell or anything.
I know I need new brakes cause my brake light is on and when this started is when the sound started. I have a vibration with a rumbling sound with my car lately. It’s very inconsistent, it’s happened about 6-7 times over the last 6 weeks always at speeds of 70 or above while on interstate. It Continues to vibrate when slowing down, in fact the only way to make it stop, is to pull off and come to a complete stop. After coming to complete stop and restarting, it will drive correctly. This week I took a long road trip, over 1200 miles round trip, mostly interstate and it only did it twice! Since the noise started I’ve replaced all 4 tires (it was time) about a month ago, and have had it balanced twice, thinking maybe they did not do it correctly the first time.
I don’t know what else to do, and of course when I bring to be checked it doesn’t do it!!. Please read my comment. I drive my 2016 camry for rideshare company and i realize that i hit lots of patholes and i need to mentenance sooner than others but i was in shop and balanced tires. When i left i tested on highway and it was still vibrating little bit. I drove to another city 50 miles away. I was going 85 80 75.
When i was coming back shaking went worse and i reduced speed to 65. I went to tire shop and they said needed to balacne again because machine still was showing numbers instead of zeros and rebalanced and it got shake again. Even feel 25mph on new roads. Steering wheel doesn't shake visible but vibration makes me tired. I changed rims tires and it still does the same thing. When i left tire shop car is smooth. After 1 week it gives you hand massage,it shakes too much and botle or cup in cup holders are about to jump.
Henry Tempo 6n2 Manually Download
When i brake it shakes more i tested rotors on highway and definitely need to change. It gets too hot and cant touch brake pedal after couple brakes on high speed.
Is the reason is brakes while driving or is something wrong with tires. It looks like when i left shop balance is good and after few days without hitting a pothole car makes vibration and after balance probpem is solve for another few days.
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I took my 19 Toyota Camry to service for the first time over the weekend. It took less than an hour as they only did rotate the tires and checked the fluid levels etc.I realized while driving on highway there is a very little shaking/ vibrating after passing 80 mph.
I noticed this after they rotate the tires. It is very little but still noticeable.
Car is only on 5k miles so it`s not normal and I think they rotated the tires but not balanced it properly. I am really not a fan of taking my car service even though it has toyota care on it, but i realized every time i get there, they try to up sell me extra service or something wrong happens to my car afterwards.Did anyone else have similar experience steering wheels shaking after rotation? Should i take it back and have them rotate properly. Hi,I have a 2006 mazda 3 and I experience intermittent vibration/shimmy of the steering wheel while at highway speeds. Often times I'll get onto the highway and up to speed (70mph) without any vibration or perhaps only the slightest almost imperceptible amount.
Then while travelling at the same speed and going around a curve on the highway the steering wheel will start shimmying significantly and continue to shimmy after returning to a straight section of the road.If i reduce speed it lessons and disappears and will return if I regain speed.Going around another curve at the same speed will sometimes stope the vibration or sometimes have no effect.The tires are Michelin with about 10k miles one them. I've head the alignment checked and it is ok. While checking the alignment the shop inspected the ball joints and tie rods and looked ok. I've pulled off the wheels and rotors, cleaned the contact surfaces and reassembled without any change.Your thoughts would be appreciated, thanks!. Hi Eddie,Came across this helpful topic while on the hunt for my own car's fix.I have a 2015 pulsar with 17' alloys.3 are perfectly fine but the driver side previously had a puncture which was repaired with one of those rubber seals. When inflated to standard pressure (33psi) deflates to 26 (cold) within 24 hours and remains there and does not go any further (even after weeks).My issue is that when driving above 90km/h on smooth roads, I get a weird vibration (not steering wheel, more like body of car) every 2 seconds that only lasts about 1/2 sec.Should I just fix the puncture with one of those goop/tyreweld things or should I just get a new tyre altogether? Is this 7 psi pressure difference in 1 wheel likely to cause the above vibration?Thanks,Andrew.
Ok i have been going thru front tires every 1000 miles or so. The car vibrates at highway speed and wanders.
Passenger side front tire wears evenly but drivers front wears the outside more but rest of the tire wears evenly. Ex husband said could be tierods and ball joints. This is a 2001 kia sephia. These are new tires that are 45000 mile tires. Every 1000 miles is drastic and i drive 300 miles a week. Also steering wheel is crooked. The wandering worries the most of all especially since i got pulled over cause the car crossed the center line.
Hi again Eddie. I took my truck back. They took a look at the tires and said nothing was wrong. There was nothing wrong with the tires.
I forgot to mention it's a 2001 tacoma with wheel spacers (i think 1.5in). Also has a 3 inch lift. I was thinking it could be the wheel spacers or maybe the bolts on the rims. I brought it to another place and they said it could be my rims. They said that because of the shape of the rims, that they can be hard to balance/not precise enough which could be causing the wheel shaking.
I'm not sure what to think. My step dad and I have thought of everything and brought it to 15 places probably. I just want to be able to drive it on the highway without the steering wheel shaking, as simple as that may seem. Is there anything else that could be the problem? My step dad thinks that it could be the ball joints or a bushing on the front end on the ball joint assembly or control arm. Let me know what you think.Thanks. Hi, I have a 2011 Kia Soul +.
It is in mint condition and recently, I have a vibration felt through the right front tire while car i in park, with engine running. The other tires do not have any vibration running through them. When I accelerate, the vibration can be felt through the steering wheel and floor mostly.
Shifts perfect in all gears and has new cooper tires on. Brakes, rotors and front components have been replaced in the past 6 months. The vibration is felt through front passenger tire only at idle while car is running. Tire place said wheel bearing had slight play in it as well as torque strut (mount).but could a torque strut cause vibration in the tire at idle??. I have a 2018 chevy equinox and my tire pressure started getting low in one of my tires. I thought it was because it was one of the coldest days we have had so far but the PSI still continued to drop from 36 psi to 17 psi over night. I would put air in it and I noticed when I got on the highway it would wobble, not much but I could tell the difference.
Nothing visable puncturing the tire. We put fix a flat in the tire and it did hold the air over night but I still noticed the wobble when I got on the highway again. Do you know what this could possible be from? For more information on managing or withdrawing consents and how we handle data, visit our Privacy Policy at: Show Details NecessaryHubPages Device IDThis is used to identify particular browsers or devices when the access the service, and is used for security reasons.LoginThis is necessary to sign in to the HubPages Service.Google RecaptchaThis is used to prevent bots and spam. AkismetThis is used to detect comment spam. HubPages Google AnalyticsThis is used to provide data on traffic to our website, all personally identifyable data is anonymized.
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While at a hamfest yesterday I came upon a Henry Tempo 6N2 6m/2m kW amplifier. I have been looking for a Henry 2002A but have never heard of this 6N2. After some searching it appears this amp is the precursor to the Henry 2000 series. It was made from 1972-1975 (on-line information).The 6N2 was being sold as is. The owner said it did not work and it was too heavy to ship for repair. He mentioned someone named Linda (I think) in Florida who is supposed to be a Henry amp guru. He said after sending her some photos and describing the situation the best he could, she told him she thought this could be a quick fix.
He was concerned about shipping cost to and from Florida (it says it the literature it weighs 80 lbs) and decided to try to sell locally.The amp came with paperwork showing the 1 kW output and that this amp uses two 8874 tubes. Thinking it was worth the $100 gamble, being an early Henry amp, I brought it home. It is clean inside with no obvious signs of burns or overheating. The case and front panel are in good cosmetic shape.The purpose of this thread is to ask for information/experience/opinions of the Henry Tempo 6N2 amp (I am primarily interested in 2m as I have no 6m equipment). Also, if it were in good usable condition, what would this amp be worth? I have no experience working on tube type amps so any repair will have to be done by a repair shop or generous elmer.So.what do you think?Dee, KA5SDC.
Properly operating, I'd say it's worth a kilobuck or maybe a bit more than that.That is, properly operating with good 8874 tubes. 8874s are very expensive today and a new pair can easily cost six hundred bucks.The Florida amp repair shop is The Amp Lady. She has a website.You didn't say what your 2m rig is, but that amp needs about 50W drive on 2m. Less won't let it run full power, and more can damage it. The power rating is PEP on SSB/CW, it won't run a kW on FM.at least, not for long.I've used several of those amps, they were manufactured here in L.A.
And there are quite a few of them around here. Henry can probably still service it if need be; they no longer make any tube amps, but the shop remains and last I looked they had a LOT of spare parts for the older amps.